San Blas - departing for Mazatlan - February 22, 2011

A few thoughts and pictures from San Blas.

1.  The mosquitoes aren’t quite as bad as they say.  Except if you’re stupid enough to arrange a dock part at dusk.  Our last evening that’s what happened and I think we all got  a bunch of bites as parting gifts – despite the DEET. 

2.  Tom really does love fixing engines.  Our friends, Jeff and Sharon, on “About Time” had engine trouble and Tom was delighted to be able to resolve the problem.

3.  Small Mexican villages are amazing places.  Especially when you're on a quest.  Both for La Sirena AND for a hotel called The Bucanero Hotel where our friend Dave Case stayed in the mid-50's as he was searching for parrots to import to the USA.

3.  It’s great to have Spanish skills that are good enough to talk with 4 year olds and taxi drivers.  We were able to learn so much from a taxi driver in between his and our “Spanglish”.  Below are pics from our trip "up the hill" to see the "Bells of San Blas".  Absolutely beautiful and rich in history.

And now, off to Mazatlan. 

San Blas – Jungle Tour - February 20, 2011

A trip to San Blas is not complete without the Jungle Tour.  We took this amazing 2.5 hour panga trip up through the mangroves just outside San Blas with our friends Rick and Pam from “Hotel California”.   Over 300 species of birds have been found (we probably saw 50 different types), turtles sun themselves on the rocks, Iguanas, and Jose, our Capitan, was fearless at getting us up close to crocodiles (see further down in pics)!  Yikes!

Jose, el Capitan, with Suzanne and Tom and Rick and Pam



This is the smallest Crocodile on the trip -- I just didn't want to scare you too much



San Blas - The quest for “La Sirena” - Exciting conclusion - February 19, 2011

As I mentioned earlier, Tom was on a quest to find his old Master Mariner competitor – the schooner “La Sirena”.  He had thought she was being worked on in Guyamas - but no.  Then in La Cruz we found Glenn Burch, her former owner (see that part of the story in the La Paz section of the blog).  We also learned from son Hans, that the new owner Lee had taken her to San Blas, where she may have died from “old wooden boat in Mexico” disease.

Our first night in the San Blas marina, we met a man with his dog.  Tom asked about La Sirena and the end of the story was revealed. 
Lee had tried with great commitment to revive the old boat – but alas, she was too far gone.  And while MOST of her went to the wooden boat sky above, Lee donated her transom, rudder and other pieces to a local "museum" bar named “Billy Bob’s”.  

After a walk through the huge Saturday morning Flea Market at the San Blas airport (they shut the airstrip down), then off to “Billy Bob’s” bar in search of the conclusion to the story.

 Billy Bob’s is a historic building and bar in San Blas.  We walked in the front door and there – prominently displayed – was the stern of “La Sirena”.  It had been transformed into a nice table.  We introduced ourselves to the Bar Manager, Jonathan, and told him of Tom’s quest.  Jonathan was quite happy to learn more about the history of the ole girl – and even more happy to hang the MMBA T-Shirt on the wall above the table!  And when the owner, Billy Bob himself, came in -- well, the tequilla started to flow and what a great time was shared by all!

Billy Bob, Tom and much of the remains of La Sirena

 Billy Bob’s is a “must visit” if any of you Master Mariners (or anyone else) who happen to land in San Blas.   And be sure to say "how-dee" from us to "Fluffy", the 78 year of Crocodile in the back courtyard. 

San Blas - What a blast! -- February 18 – 22, 2011

 Leaving La Cruz/Banderas Bay was the start of our return trip.  A little sad – but the adventure continues as we still have almost 6 weeks left on the trip.  Next stop, a little 12 hour overnight sail to San Blas. 

The Bugs of San Blas:  Tom may have chosen to bypass San Blas.  In every written piece and every conversation about this little Mexican town, the discussion of mosquitoes and no-see-ums “jejenes” is always present.  Tom hates those bugs.  Fortunately for us, the chance to track down “La Sirena” was a bigger draw than the bugs were a deterrent!

After spending the early morning hours dodging fishing boats, we arrived in Matachen Bay (just south of the entrance to San Blas) at 6:00 AM and dropped our anchor for a little nap.  We were awoken by a radio call at 0800 hrs. from the infamous “radio stalker” Jama, a.k.a. Norm, to join the San Blas net on Channel 22. 

While many avoid Norm, we were glad to accept his advice in navigating the narrow San Blas entrance/channel to the very nice marina.  We also accepted his invitation to join him and his lovely wife Janet, along with 6 other cruisers from “Yancey” and “Hotel California", for a memorable and delicious dinner in a family run outdoor streetside restaurante.  The Posole (seafood and hominy  soup) was amazing.  We would never have found this place without them.

La Cruz/Banderas Bay - We'll return but it's time to leave. 17 February 2011

This has been a terrific port on our trip.  Fun things to do, places to go. People to see.  I would love to go further south, but it's time to turn back.

Scenes from Banderas Bay:

French Couple perform acrobatics from their yacht.

They are traveling with their two children around the world

Supporting themselves with these performances.  They'll in the the Bay Area after Hawaii & Canada!

Super Bowl Sunday at the Sky Lounge @ Marina La Cruz

Bucerias is just south of La Cruz and is a fabulous place to visit or stay

Punte de Mita is on the north side of the bay - Fishing and tourists can be found there!

Amazing sand sculptures on the beach in Puerto Vallarta

The View of Banderas Bay/PV from Bea and Peter's home

People - While fearful of missing mention of some terrific people…I want to remind myself of people we enjoyed spending time with while in Banderos Bay.

Patti and Terry Klaus

Julie and Andy Turpin and family

Bea and Peter van de Voort (and Mike, Betsy, Mimi, Jan…)

Glenn Burch

Kristen and Steve Ingham – s/v Nautilus

Anne Woodson and Dick Towson – s/v Full & By

Debbie & Don Robertson - s/v Bueno Vista

Sharon and Jeff Smith – s/v About Time

Jon and Lisa Hansen – s/v Molly J

Janie and Jeff Woodward – s/v Adagio

We're looking forward to hearing about other adventures and hopefully reconnecting here, there, or somewhere in the future!

Puerto Vallarta – No finer place than Los Mercados

  Peter and Bea van der Voort are the parents of our daughter-in-law, Sophie.They live in Puerto Vallarta, which on its own merit was reason for us to come to PV.  But the reason YOU need to see them is the business they just opened - Los Mercados.  Just off the Malecon, it is an amazing concept where the beauty of the space draws people in…and once in, you’ll find many reasons to spend a part of your day (and a few of your pesos) there. www.losmercadospv.com

Los Mercados offers fabulous coffee, fresh baked goods, produce, fresh made sausages, deli items and wine/spirits in the lower level shops. 



Bea, Peter, Terry Klaus and Tom in "Fireworks!"



Upstairs is Bea’s studio called “Fireworks!”.  Here, you could purchase pieces of pottery Bea has created (I did).  But even better, Fireworks is where you paint your own ceramics.  She has all sizes/shapes of plates and bowls – and Bea has the paints, brushes and will help with technique, if you wish.   What a wonderful way to spend a morning – by yourself or with friends.  She’ll fire your creation and have it ready for you in 3 days.  I had a wonderful time making Tom’s Valentine’s Day present.    

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2 of Maggie's 3 Grandmothers



Also, huge thanks Bea, Peter, along with Betsy, Mimi, Jan and friends for a fabulous lunch at your beautiful home!!!

  

La Cruz - Glenn Burch and the s/v La Sirena - Tom’s quest to find them

Tom had heard his old friend, Glenn

Burch, from the Master Mariners, may be in La Cruz.  Tom had raced “Polaris” against Glenn’s boat “La Sirena” in the SF Bay for many years.  When Glenn retired from the Park Service, he and La Sirena headed South.  We also knew Glenn had given the boat to a new owner, Lee,  but were unsure if it survived the “old wooden boat in Mexico” disease.

In La Cruz, we found a picture of La Sirena on a banner advertisement for the marina, but now how to track down Glenn? 

The Glenn Burch Backward Salute

What a surprise when Tom walked into Philo’s and there was Glenn at the bar.  We enjoyed a great time catching up with him.  And hope he’ll be there next time we visit La Cruz. 

But what happened to La Sirena?  We heard we may find her in San Blas.  The quest will continue...

Banderas Bay - La Cruz, Bucerios and Puerto Vallarta. – 02 to 17 February 2011

After 3 days at sea, we were glad to pass our 1^st waypoint into Banderas Bay.  There were 4 good places to stay in this big beautiful bay, and we decided that La Cruz de Huanacaxtle was the best suited for us.  A new modern marina, a quaint Mexican town with cobblestone streets, taco stands and easy bus access to Puerto Vallarta was great. But the real clincher is the music scene.  Philo’s and Anna Banana’s are just two of the places to enjoy live music and a beverage and something yummy to eat. 

Our first afternoon in La Cruz we walked to Philo’s for a burger and met Philo himself who is legendary for really helping cruisers and the community.   He invited Tom and his fiddle to sit in with the band on Thursday night. 

 Turns out that our friends Andy Turpin (“Banjo Andy” as he’s known) and his wife, Julie, along with their “kids” and grandchild were in town.  Andy, as Editor of Latitude 38, was covering the “Puddle Jumpers” who often choose this area to prepare for their passage to the South Pacific.  After an impromptu happy hour on Begone, Tom and Andy both sat in with Philo’s band on Thursday night.

 And after a great night if pickin', Huevos Rancheros @ Anna Banana's is tough to beat.

La Paz to La Cruz - Banderas Bay -1/30/11 - 2/2/11

La Paz to La Cruz - We were not arrested and detained.

30 January 2011 – Sunday – 0900: Our new La Paz friends from Wisp and Merlot cast off our dock lines, and we were underway for Puerto Vallarta/La Cruz in Banderas Bay on the “Mexican Rivera”. Three days, three nights underway.

All’s good. Sunny, 10 knots of breeze from the North and we motor out the channel and on through the San Lorenzo channel. Turning SW to pass through the Cerrablo Channel, I raised the mainsail and we set a course of 223 degrees on a calm 1st night of our passage. The “Red Sky at night – Sailors Delight” proved to be true.  

But what does it mean when the sky in red in the morning, too???  "Sailors take warn" -- of what?  Fortunately, no worries!

A group of dolphin came by for a brief visit on their way north.

I charted a course that would take us just 4-5 miles south of the 3 Islas Marias (islands). It would be another 30 hours before we got there, so I thought I’d read about it them our new “Pacific Coast” Cruisers Guidebook by Shawn Breeding and Heather Bansmer.

“Hey Tom, if the guidebook recommends that we “sail well clear of the area”, how many miles would you stay offshore?”

“Depends on why we need to do it.”

“Well, it says the big island is a prison colony and there is a large restricted area around the group that’s patrolled by Mexican authorities. The wide berth is to avoid interception and detention.”

You will be pleased to know that the 10 mile wide berth was enough so that we were not approached, intercepted nor detained!

02 February 2011 – 1000 – We arrived at the La Cruz Marina. It turned out that had we left one day later, we would have gotten smacked with 30 knots of wind. Phew. Called that one right!